Trip to the Rhine
Due to an invitation to friends' silver wedding anniversary, we traveled to the Rhine. We took the opportunity to explore some places nearby in more detail. Since our car was still at the paint shop, we traveled by train and rented a car on site to conveniently explore the area.
Frankfurt/Main
We took the ICE from Berlin to Frankfurt am Main to pick up a rental car so we could better explore the
surrounding area. Surprisingly, there were no issues with the train. Unlike what is often reported in the media.
We used the long journey to plan the next few days in more detail. Frank still had some bonus points from the
railway that were about to expire, so we exchanged them for vouchers for the onboard restaurant and were able to
enjoy drinks and snacks for free.
Upon arrival at Frankfurt Airport, we wanted to pick up our rental car. At first, we went in the wrong direction
and ended up in the underground garage where the vehicles are collected. So we turned back, since we still had to
take care of the paperwork. Back to the elevator and up we went. During the ride, the elevator felt strange and
jerked unusually. One moment we were joking about it and the next moment we actually got stuck. All the buttons
went dark, and the display read “Out of Order”. We took it with humor: after making an emergency call,
we quickly created an Instagram story and waited to be rescued. It took less than eight minutes for a service team
to arrive and free us. They briefly asked if we were okay and advised us to use the elevators on the other side.
Then we could continue.
At the rental station, they asked us what kind of car we would like - even though we had booked a small car.
Apparently, anything was available except a Porsche convertible. We briefly considered choosing a Lamborghini or a
large SUV but ultimately opted for a small, agile, and lively Opel Corsa (Hybrid).
After arriving at our hotel in Frankfurt, we quickly checked in but soon headed out again to explore. We parked
the car in an underground garage and came out right at a wine festival offering “Äppelwoi” and
other Frankfurt specialties. From there, we continued to the old town, strolled across the Römer square with
its fountain and town hall, visited the Imperial Cathedral of St. Bartholomew, and listened to an organ rehearsal.
We then walked down to the Iron Footbridge over the Main before heading back toward the old town. From there, we
walked along the pedestrian zone toward the banking district and the Main Tower. When we arrived, there was
already a queue to go up the tower, but we didn't have to wait long. Soon we were on the 54th floor at the
observation deck, enjoying a fantastic view over the skyline.
Afterwards, we had dinner at Góc Phô,
a Vietnamese restaurant that was not only delicious but also beautifully located in a charming vaulted cellar.
Later, we noticed that there is a second part of the restaurant - apparently without the cellar setting.
The Silver Wedding Anniversary
The next day, we continued to Mainz. Fortunately, we were able to check into our hotel right away and go to our
room, as we wanted to change before heading to the celebration. In keeping with our former time in Bavaria, we
decided to wear traditional outfits - Dirndl and Lederhosen.
Just like at their original wedding, the anniversary couple invited guests to a boat trip. From Budenheim, we
sailed on the “Libelle” along the Rhine toward the Loreley and back. In wonderful weather, a renewed
ceremony was held on deck, while the guests were in awe of the beautiful landscape and the castles along the
Rhine.
Amid pleasant conversations with old friends and new acquaintances, we enjoyed a delicious cake buffet and later a
varied dinner buffet, all set against the breathtaking backdrop of the UNESCO World Heritage Upper Middle Rhine
Valley. The whole event was accompanied by live music from a singer with a ukulele. There was also an artist on
board who created handmade drawings of the couple and guests upon request.
Exhausted but happy from so many impressions, we fell into bed that evening. What a wonderful day with dear friends.
A Day in Mainz
The day after the celebration, we explored Mainz and its sights. It is home to a UNESCO World Heritage site: The Jewish Cemetery, part of the SchUM sites. Unfortunately, construction work was underway, so we could only look over the fence. Next, we visited Mainz Cathedral, where we arrived just in time for the midday service. We sat down and listened - it was surprisingly modern - and also used the opportunity to plan what we wanted to photograph later. As part of the Gutenberg Year, the cathedral featured the largest Bible page in the world (until August 31, 2025). There was also an exhibition presenting the Bible in various forms, including children's Bibles and special editions featuring works by artists such as Marc Chagall. There were also reference books to help with understanding, and marked passages with explanations and interpretations.
After visiting the cathedral, we passed through the Iron Tower down to the Rhine, walked along the promenade to
the Templar Gate, then returned via the Wooden Tower into the old town and climbed up to the Citadel.
Since Johannes Gutenberg invented printing in Mainz, we came across an exhibition about the history of printing.
Outside, children could compose their names using movable type, apply ink, and print them themselves. We watched
with curiosity until a museum staff member invited us inside for a lecture about the beginnings of printing. It
reminded us how the spread of knowledge only became possible through printing, allowing even poorer people to
learn to read and write. However, it also led to misuse - even back then - through pamphlets spreading false
information (what we would now call fake news).
A funny detail: Since the German broadcaster ZDF is based in Mainz, the pedestrian traffic lights throughout the
city feature the “Mainzelmännchen” figures in red and green.
Upper Middle Rhine Valley
The section of the Rhine between Bingen/Rüdesheim and Koblenz is known as the Upper Middle Rhine Valley and
is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Since there are no bridges across the Rhine between Mainz/Wiesbaden and Koblenz -
and we weren't allowed to use ferries with our rental car - we ended up exploring the entire stretch.
We first drove along the western side, stopping at various points of interest. We passed St. Philippus and Jakobus
Church and the “Herb Church” in Bingen-Gaulsheim with its beautiful paintings. In Bingen itself, the
Basilica of St. Martin was under construction, but the climb up to Klopp Castle rewarded us with fantastic views
over the Rhine Valley.
Nothing remains of the former Hildegard von Bingen's convent, but an interactive telescope shows its former
location. Nearby, we found the “Hildegarten”, dedicated to her herbal knowledge. Although it was
closed (like many places on Mondays), the gardeners kindly opened it for us when they saw our disappointment. We
were allowed to explore the garden and study the information boards - something we are very grateful for.
Passing by the castles of Rheinstein and Reichenstein, we continued on to Niederheimbach-Lorch, where a sign drew
our attention to a wine festival. Unfortunately, it was still being set up, so we moved on to Rheindiebach, where
we wanted to visit the ruins of Fürstenberg Castle. The path to the ruins led us right through a vineyard up
to the castle walls. Somewhat surprised, we realized that there seemed to be no official access. Via partly
adventurous paths and steps, we made our way into the interior of the castle ruins and explored the grounds. Along
the way, we helped ourselves to juicy, sweet blackberries before heading back to the car.
On our way to Koblenz, we made another stop in the picturesque town of Bacharach. The town center is characterized
by numerous half-timbered houses and small alleyways. Above the town, perched on a hillside, stands Stahleck
Castle. At the old Posthof in Bacharach, we took a coffee break and enjoyed some delicious cake. Refreshed, we set
off on the final stretch to Koblenz. There, we definitely wanted to visit the “Deutsches Eck”, where
the Moselle flows into the Rhine. This prominent headland is dominated by the Kaiser Wilhelm Monument.
Here in Koblenz, after about 100 km, we finally had the opportunity to cross the Rhine via a bridge again. We
switched to the eastern side of the river and began our return journey. We passed several idyllic places along the
way, but since we had already visited them before, we didn't stop. Only the Loreley rock in the Rhine was
worth another visit. From the parking area, a footpath leads across the headland down to the statue.
After that, we continued on to Rüdesheim, where we happened to come across another wine festival. Alongside good
music, delicious food, and of course regional wine, all the wine queens of the region were also present. We joined
the lively atmosphere and treated ourselves to Spundekäs and Handkäs burgers. Of course, a stroll
through the old town streets was a must, even though they seemed almost deserted due to the festival.
Finally, we crossed the Rhine again in Wiesbaden and returned to our hotel in Mainz.
Wiesbaden to Finish
For the last day of our trip to the Rhine, we had planned to visit Wiesbaden. Compared to the previous days, we
took it easy this time and didn't plan a specific route or must-see attractions - we just wanted to wander
and explore at our own pace.
We started at Café Maldaner, where
we enjoyed breakfast in an elegant atmosphere with coffee specialties from their in-house roastery.
Afterwards, we decided to take the Nerobergbahn up the hill of the same name. From there, you get a wonderful view
over the city, and you can also visit a Russian Orthodox church on the Neroberg. After descending, we continued by
public transport down to the Rhine. There, we strolled along the river to Biebrich Palace and then on to
Schierstein harbor, where we saw several motorboats and small yachts. Upon arrival, we came across a local
festival with music and wine.
We then took the bus back into the city center, where we visited the former spa house, now a casino. Nearby, we
passed the opera house and then headed toward one of the largest cuckoo clocks in the world. Every half and full
hour between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m., the cuckoo calls and little figures dance in a circle. Although we were there at
the right time, the figures were so small that it was hard to see anything, and the street noise was quite
distracting. So this stop was rather disappointing for us.
However, Wiesbaden is also famous for its thermal water. It smells and tastes like rotten eggs and is over 66°C
hot, hence the name “Kochbrunnen” (boiling spring). Of course, we had to try it… yuck, and
that's supposed to be healthy? Current measurements of substances such as arsenic and mercury are
significantly above recommended limits, so only small amounts should be consumed.
To finish, we made a short detour to the Protestant Marktkirche and the town hall, followed by a delicious dinner
at Sontaya - Thai Kitchen & Bar, which
offers very authentic food at much more reasonable prices than the restaurants in the famous Goldgasse.
Dreieich
Since we had to check out at 11 a.m., but our train from Frankfurt didn't leave until 2 p.m., we still had
some time left. After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we spontaneously drove to Dreieich, where we had spotted
the ruins of Hayn Castle on the map.
Hayn Castle and several lovingly restored half-timbered houses along small alleyways are located within a largely
preserved city wall with two entrance gates. We spent the remaining time strolling around before heading back for
our journey home.
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Guten Tag Ihr Welt-Genießer, anstatt im Osten, wo ich Euch vermutet hatte, seid Ihr nun im Westen am schönen Rhein. Eure Schilderungen haben bei mir viele Erinnerungen wach gerufen. War ich doch sechs Jahre auf der Realschule in Bonn und kenne die geschilderten Orte von damals ziemlich gut. Da ich seinerzeit wenig Geld (heute würde man passenderweise sagen gar keines ) hatte aber ein Fahrrad, bin ich am End der Schulzeit mit dem Dreigang-Rad von Bonn nach Ansbach in drei Tagen geradelt. Da habe ich die Rheinstrecke - es war 1954 - auf der Bundesstraße ohne viel Verkehr benutzen können. Tempi passati. Dann weiterhin gute Reise, viele Erlebnisse und viel Spaß wünscht der Kieser-Eleve aus Friedberg.
Antworten
Wolfgang Engerer
11. September 2025, 11:21:11